A Visit to the Castle on the Heights of Puerto Vallarta Al MacRury - Hamilton Spectator
go to original January 2, 2013

Al MacRury atop the 14-room Casa Isabel hotel near its outdoor hot tub

It's a steep climb. And, the cobblestones tough to navigate when one is wearing sandals.

But, as you leave the old city of Puerto Vallarta behind with its heat and humidity, the cooling breezes of Alta Vista are a welcome relief at day's end.

You've been busy, because there is much to do in this port city on Mexico's Pacific coast. It's come alive since I last ventured here 20 years ago, with an expanded Malecon boardwalk along the oceanfront, bustling with shops, bars and restaurants. Its population has more than doubled.

And, I haven't mentioned the infamous night life.

If you don't wish to undertake the climb on foot, there are plenty of bright yellow taxis waiting to take you from Zona Romantica to your destination, Casa Isabel, a boutique hotel perched atop the cliffs with a panoramic view of the city below and Banderas Bay.

It's truly a castle, whose labyrinth of spiral stairways and hidden tunnels rivals those of my childhood left behind in the mists of the Scottish highlands.

I'm having morning coffee with Isabel Manore. She's the owner and spends her winters here, in her rooftop penthouse. She also owns the very popular Madison Avenue Pub and Restaurant in Toronto and the Madison Manor Boutique Hotel.

Staying at Casa Isabel is like visiting Isabel in her southern home, which is what it is. She mingles with the guests, many of them frequent visitors over the years.

"I came down for breakfast and everybody's already left," she tells Alecio, the regular morning waiter. I had just finished my Eggs Benedict, accompanied by great coffee and a house specialty named Jugo Verde (green juice), containing oranges, pineapple, green apple, celery, cactus and parsley. It flushes out your system, leaving you invigorated.

"I'll be heading to the airport in a couple of hours, but I'll be back," I assured her.

And why not? Canadian dollars go a long way in Vallarta. My breakfast cost 99 pesos, or about $7.50.

A taxi ride almost anywhere in Old Vallarta won't cost you more than 40 or 50 pesos, a fraction of the price you pay in Hamilton.

During my week's stay, I met many expatriates who have retired here.

Peter Preston, the 77-year-old former MPP from Haldimand-Norfolk, rents a two-bedroom/two-bathroom, 1,500 square foot apartment with a lovely terrace, all for $800. It came fully furnished.

"I understand you write for The Spectator," he says. "My father Clarence Preston was often in your paper. He was one of the Hamilton police detectives who investigated the 1946 Evelyn Dick murders."

"I'm not leaving here," Preston says. "They can send my ashes home."

The flight from Toronto to Puerto Vallarta takes about 5 1/2 hours. West Jet offers a direct flight on Fridays and I paid just over $800. It leaves a convenient 10:00 am and you arrive at 2:17 pm Pacific time.

While the new expanded Puerto Vallarta airport is much larger than I recall, it retains an intimate feel. It's a rather long walk from your airplane to your taxi, however. Airport taxis are white, by the way.

When I arrived at Casa Isabel and was shown my room, I couldn't have been happier.

"I think your rooms are actually underpriced," I would later tell Isabel.

My one-bedroom air-conditioned suite was spacious, its tiled floors, full kitchen and two bathrooms decorated in earth tones. All countertops are ceramic tile. The balcony overlooking the ocean was a lovely spot for morning coffee. It has glass doors you could close during the rainy season, but every day of my stay brought sunshine and 30 C temperatures.

The living room had attractive wooden colonial-style furniture and wall carvings. The kitchen comes complete with fridge, stove, coffee maker, toaster, microwave and all utensils. There's a large screen satellite TV, wireless Internet and free long-distance calling to Canada and the U.S.

You step up into the bedroom, which also has glass windows and a door to separate it from the living area for privacy. It features a king-sized bed and a wonderful bathroom with a shower stall which could easily accommodate a family of four. All this for $1,229 U.S. per week in high season.

There are only 14 rooms at Casa Isabel, but there are two pools, a hot tub and a wonderful restaurant, open to the sea breezes, but protected by a massive palapa-style roof.

You can choose your accommodation, be it a studio, one or two-bedroom suites. There are even two honeymoon suites, and though twice divorced, they tempted me into reminiscing about days gone by.

The pools are huddled around the bar not far from the stairway leading to the Madison South restaurant, the cooler one in the shade and the warmer infinite pool spilling over the edge of the cliff. As you lie in the pool, you can see old Zona Romantica below and the newer neighbourhoods to the north, near the airport and marina.

Finding your way to the rooftop hot tub, located just outside the door to Isabel's own quarters, is an adventure in itself. I'm not sure I could do it without a guide. There are several ways of getting there, but each leads you through the labyrinths of the castle. At the end of the day, while watching the sunset, the hot tub is actually a pleasant place to be. You can phone down for drinks.

The dining room has a broad menu with plenty of seafood, but even the filet mignon steak is mouth-watering. There is live entertainment every night, to put you into a relaxed mood.

Casa Isabel is an adults-only hotel, though children can dine at the restaurant.

Some guests (including my friend) indulge in the vibrant night life. When they finally arise the following day, they have many a story to tell.

During the day, my friend and I rode the local bus to a beautiful village named Boca de Tomatlan, a 45-minute journey costing all of 7 pesos and a great way to see the countryside.

We also sailed in a fibreglass boat to the Yelapa peninsula, a hippie-like haven only accessible by water. It cost 250 pesos/person return. Our guide and captain Ernestino accompanied us on a hike, which ended at a small café next to a waterfall.

I purchased two beautiful pottery soap bowls from a roadside vendor, his mother.

Mexico is famous for its leather, so I had to buy two thick trouser belts and two wallets, which along with the pottery set me back $90.

For more information on Casa Isabel, call (416) 922-5579, or toll-free at (877) 561-7048, or check out Casa Isabel.