How Did Tequila Become Mexico's National Drink? Alex Gomez - VisitPuertoVallarta.com
go to original September 27, 2012

The plant known as "agave" or "maguey" was being harvested in Mexico since the time of the Aztecs. It is not a cactus, it is a member of the lily family, and was used for food and fiber. The sap from the heart of the agave had for many generations been fermented into an alcoholic drink known to Indigenous Mexicans as "pulque" even before the Conquistadores arrived.

More modern Tequila originated in sixteenth century Mexico, in what we know today as the state of Jalisco, in the town of Tequila. While Indigenous Mexicans might have begun the process of making it, it was the descendants of the Europeans who took it a step further and began to distill it so that it resembled something like modern Tequila.

In 1600, Don Pedro Sanchez de Tagle began to mass-produce Tequila in Jalisco's first factory, but not until two centuries later did the Tequila of then become the Tequila of now.

The Spanish explorer, Hernán Cortez, described "pulque" to King Carlos in his first letter back.

Centuries before, "agave" existed among the Aztecs and their gods. As it was women that discovered it in the terrain they tended, it fell to the ever-lovely Mayahuel to became a magnificent Aztec goddess, who ran away to marry Quetzalcoatl, the god of redemption, and they transformed themselves into two branches of the same leafy tree so that their terrible grandmother, Tzintzimitl, would not find them and have them executed, as she had ordained must be done.

The lovers were unable to hide for very long from the armies of ants that the outraged gods sent for them. As soon as they were visible, the stars ate up Mayahuel. Quetzalcoatl managed to stay alive and after he buried her remains in the ground, the first "agave" plant was born and was struck down by a lightning bolt from a great storm sent by the gods on their rage for what Mayahuel had done.

Once the storm had finished and the fire was out, the long and thorny leaves of the "agave" had been consumed, leaving only the Heart of the Plant pouring out the Blood of Mayahuel, sweet nectar that tastes like honey and smells seductively. Ever since, the nectar became a ritual beverage and a ceremonial offer to the Gods and Deities.

Tequila is a product that blends cultures. The Indigenous Mexicans would end by creating Pulque, or Mezcal, which was normally used for religious rituals and ceremonies. A process of fermentation would bring about these products.

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Eventually Spain introduced the distillation process, which they could not have done if it were not for the Moors who introduced it to their Spanish captives (for 800 years) Spain, by way of Andalusia. It is a beverage of mixed identities.

By this time it is extremely important to understand the historical process that gave birth to the beverage we enjoy today. The Tequila is the product obtained from the distillation and fermentation of the mezcal plant scientifically known as Xerofica-Agave-Tequilana (Member of the lily family). The two main types are the Agave-Azul and Agave-Xinguin. These species are cultivated in the states of Jalisco and Nayarit in Mexico.

However, there are ten other distinct species. The Agave or Xerofica-Tequilana requires ten years of development and three more years that involve its production and manufacture. In order for this liquid to be defined as tequila, it must be made up of at least 51% fermented sugar extracted from the Agave-Azul (also designated as Weber-Azul).

If this condition is not achieved, then the resulting beverage is named Mezcal. For a very long period Mezcal was viewed as something enjoyed by the down and out, because it was inexpensive. People who were more cultivated drank Tequila. In its lineage there are three types that are recognized internationally: "White" or Plata, Reposado, and Añejo.

From the 1930s through the 1980s, the bulk of the Tequila being produced was of the blended mix to variety. The original 100% Agave Tequilas were reduced to a minor specialty product role in the market.

However, in the late 1980s the rising popularity of single malt Scotch whiskies and expensive Cognacs in the international marketplace did not go unnoticed among Tequila producers. New brands of 100% blue agave Tequilas were introduced and sales began a steady growth curve that continues to this day.

The Mexican Revolution was brought on by, among other factors, el Porfiriato; in other words, the near-totalitarian government Porfirio Diaz from Mezcal-producing Oaxaca instituted when he elected himself president for what would be a period of thirty-one years. In this time, as was to be expected, political and financial power in Mexico became concentrated in the hands of a very few. Ordinary citizens had no power to elect their own leaders and were unable to express their public opinions.

Francisco I. Madero was a young reformer and believer in the practice of democracy. He campaigned for Porfirio Diaz to relinquish power and not seek re-election. After the assassinations of Maximo and Aquiles Serdan, on November 18 of 1910 — Porfirio Diaz had uncovered a planned insurgence of a few like-minded rebels in their home.

Then, Madero travelled to the state of Chihuhua and recruituted Pascual Orozco and Francisco (Pancho) Villa, neither of whom had much military experience but both of whom proved to be excellent strategists and were able to gain the alliegence of the people of Northern Mexico, who were turning against their abusive masters in the North, ranchers and landlords.

After burying his beloved, Quetzalcoatl returns to the sky to kill Tzinzimiti and return the sunlight to the earth. In order to alleviate Quetzalcoatl's pain, the other gods gave the Agave a liquid that, when drunk, would comfort and erase painful memories. And those who drink from the Agave will live happily ever after.

In the 16th century, Spaniards were taking over the region and using the Agave for building roofs, making needles, pins, and nails. Dried leaves were used for fuel while its ashes were used for soap, which helped to heal wounds. The Spanish liked their Spanish wines and liquors so they banned the production of native spirits. Despite the ban, clandestine production continued. During the 17th century, native spirits were seen as a revenue opportunity so spirits from the Agave were allowed but heavily taxed.

Tequila became the first export of Jalisco and tax revenue funded civil projects including aqueducts and government buildings. The revenue from Tequila made many Tequila producers politically influential. During the middle of the 19th century, many Tequila producers supported the liberals during Mexico's civil war. Good choice - the liberals won. Tequila suffered a blow when the railroads came to Mexico in the late 1800's.

The railroads made European wines readily available to the masses and Tequila was relegated to the "drink of the lower classes." Tequila enjoyed resurgence during the Mexican Revolution when all things Mexican represented patriotism.

In the 1930's, it was found that Tequila was the "best medicine" against the Spanish flu epidemic that battered Northern Mexico.

And, the rest, as they say, is history.