Nostalgia at Hacienda San Angel & Casa Kimberly in Gringo Gulch Telegraph Travel UK
go to original August 30, 2016

Located in Puerto Vallarta’s ‘Gringo Gulch’ district (named so for its popularity with celebrities such as Burton in the Sixties and Seventies). It’s one street behind the city’s impressive Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe – you can even see the detailed cherubins which fly around its wrought-iron crown from one of the bedrooms (the Fuente Milagros suite). It’s a short walk to the seafront promenade, the Malecon.

It’s a traditional hacienda set-up: a central courtyard with trickling fountain, flanked by a cozy salon, potted ferns, beautifully tiled alcoves and huge palms which are taller than the hotel's tallest wall. It is Gothic meets exotic: religious effigies hide in corners, heavy wood altars are used as bed heads, corridors are lit with candelabras and statues of angels act as decorative fountains next to hidden mezzanine swimming pools.

It’s very quiet during the day, save for someone in the kitchen, the friendly reception staff – who will take lunch orders, provide poolside towels or make restaurant reservations – and the owner’s dogs. There’s no turndown service but the hotel does one better: at night, hundreds of candles are lit around the courtyard. The hotel can also arrange activities such as day trips to hidden beaches and whale watching.

There are three pools: one ground-floor oasis, framed by a droopy bougainvillea tree; one on a first-floor terrace and the other – the best sun trap – on a higher rooftop. All have ample sun-loungers and towels. There is also a chapel for weddings.

Guests’ hotel keys will also grant them access to sister property, Casa Kimberly (former home of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor), a few streets away. This warren of bedrooms, balconies, dipping pools, courtyards and roof terraces is more akin to a Baz Luhrmann film set than a hotel. It was once owned by Richard Burton and many of his antiques still remain in the house.

All 19 suites are different: one might include a confessional wooden chair from a French Cathedral and Mexican tapestries; another a clawfoot tub and four-poster bed. Many have religious symbols in rooms in the form of art or sculptures.

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