The Secret's Out on Sayulita, a Popular Mexican Beach Town Carol Pucci - The Seattle Times
August 5, 2014

Photo Credit: Carol Pucci / The Seattle Times

Our tickets said "Sayulita," but a long-distance bus ride to the Mexican beach town ended along the side of a busy highway.

We could either wait for a local bus, the driver explained, or walk the mile into town.

"You can do it," he said, glancing at the wheels on our suitcases, and pointing the way to a two-lane road.

I wasn't all that surprised. This was Mexico, after all. Or was it?

It's a question I asked myself over the next two days, as my husband, Tom, and I explored this popular beach town along a rugged stretch of Pacific coastline north of Puerto Vallarta.

Part of what's known as the Riviera Nayarit, Sayulita has long been a favorite destination for people from Seattle and Portland, but it's no longer the secluded surfing town it was a decade ago.

The little community of 4,000, many Americans and Canadians with second homes in the hills, has become an 'it' town, said Marshall Fox, a retired teacher from Portland. He had pulled over and offered us a ride after the bus dropped us off, pointing out his favorite taco stands and restaurants as we rode to town along dusty Avenue Revolution.

Sayulita's three main streets, none more than a five-minute walk to the beach, are lined with shops selling surfing gear, silver jewelry and hand-tooled leather purses. Tourists sit on brightly painted benches on the town square, typing on laptops. A few steps away is a sushi shop, an Italian bakery and a French restaurant. There's no Starbucks, but a sprawling corner cafe called "El Espresso" can satisfy a craving for a white mocha.

"It reminds me of a college party town for people over 40," said Mel Heywood, 30, the manager of a costume supply shop in Portland. She and a friend spent a week here relaxing at the Moroccan-themed Petit Hotel Hafa, where guests meet on the rooftop deck to sample tequila and trade restaurant tips. "Our biggest decisions most days were whether to read a book or take a nap."

Read the rest at The Seattle Times.