Puerto Vallarta: Ceviche is Just the Beginning Cindy Bigras - Go Nomad
go to original September 9, 2013

Mr Conception, a stalwart of Puerto Vallarta's Malecon

Mr. Concepcion, with his deep wrinkles and sun-leathered skin, has the look of a content and patient man. Most days you’ll find him on the Malecon, Puerto Vallarta's seaside walkway with a million dollar view. He sells tuba, a refreshing mixture of purified water, apples and walnuts. Or is it pecans, coconut water and strawberries? He won’t say.

The recipe is known only to himself and his wife. Each morning they rise early to mix the day’s batch, sometimes as many as 500 servings. Tuba tastes like fruit water but its silky smooth texture strikes me as unique.And yes, I’d like another!

Next stop is Taqueria El Cunedo, a 45-year-old taco stand in the Zona Romantica as the old town is called. Don’t expect a menu because they only offer one thing: carne asada tacos.

Specialization is a key to successful street dining in Puerto Vallarta. “Beware of vendors who offer everything!” I’m warned. “Be sure to go where there are plenty of Mexicans.”

It’s rare that I trust street food anywhere, never sure of what risk I might be taking, but today I’ve encountered a machete’-wielding man hacking coconuts under a palm tree, sampled fresh tortillas at a neighborhood tortilla factory, and entrusted my palate to a bustling family operation serving the local steak specialty called birria.

In Puerto Vallarta, Cesar the coconut man keeps people cool with fresh milk. Photos by Cindy Bigras

Vallarta Food Tours is the brainchild of Lindsey Prime, an enthusiastic American expat living in Mexico. Her love of local street food and Mexico itself prompted her to create a food tour in 2011.

“This is significant in Mexico,” says Lindsay, “because people are unsure of where they can eat and if they will get sick. Most people want to try a street taco but have no idea which one, where to go, what to order and therefore miss a lot of the really amazing food here.”
 
Each locale she works with has been interviewed and vetted with multiple quality assurance tastings (nice work, huh?).  

The cost of the tour is $49 per person and I think relevant to note that each vendor is paid their retail prices, testimony to Mexico’s low costs and Vallarta Food Tour’s commitment to supporting them.  

El Guero Cevicheria

Without the tour’s guidance, I would have wandered by the tiny El Guero Cevicheria, operated by Antonio and Cecelia, whose families have been in the fishing and seafood industries for generations.

Antonio’s day begins before dawn in the fish market. He won’t reveal his ceviche recipe other than to tell me it’s always made with high quality mahi-mahi or red snapper, minced vegetables, and lime, topped off with a slice of ripe avocado. It is utterly fantastic!

It’s not just the street food that is so fantastic; there are plenty of established restaurants to choose from. Restaurants such as the wildly popular No Way Jose, serving authentic Mexican fare under the rooftop terrace decorated with paintings of local artists; there’s the upscale Trio Restaurant run by two Europeans offering expertly prepared continental fare, or there’s Gaby’s where the tortilla soup is not to be missed!

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