Six Delightfully Distinct Villages Make Paradise the Riviera Nayarit Irene M. Thomas - NorthJersey.com/The Record
go to original July 14, 2013

The Mexican morning is perfect — warm and fresh. I smell tortillas browning, coffee brewing and jasmine blooming. The cacophony of roosters blends along with the trilling warblers, and fluorescent purple, orange and pink fuchsia and bougainvillea tumble over me in canopies. Strolling on through the early light on the shiny cobblestone streets, I find myself smiling at lazy dogs enjoying the sunlight.

I thought I had seen everything there was to see in the small town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, one of 16 delightfully distinct villages along 192 miles of the Riviera Nayarit coastline, but on a dusty corner, I see an intriguing handmade sign beckoning: "The Jardín del Pulpo/Octopus' Garden." I enter and find a hidden treasure — an organic coffeehouse, restaurant, artisan gallery and live music venue — all in one tropical atrium and filled with a multicultural mix of happy people. Today's treat is a flamenco-style trio — what a nice way to start the day, with fair trade coffee and astonishing Spanish guitar playing a jazzed-up version of "Bésame Mucho."

There's always something yet undiscovered around every corner in the Riviera Nayarit. These wildly, lushly green villages connect to each other with just a few miles and minutes separating them, all overlooking the blue Pacific, with verdant, dramatically beautiful mountain ranges as a backdrop, the sky filled with pelicans, herons and seagulls feasting on the abundant sea life below. Each town has its own personality, its own habitués, its own ambience. Yet all join together in this spectacularly beautiful, friendly region to offer tourists a sublime, like-nowhere-else variety of experiences, gastronomy, recreation, nature and culture.

You'll be mesmerized by the fascinating Huichol culture — a reclusive people who maintain their language, traditions and intricate artisan work. A few come to town to sell their wares, bedecked in white costumes with brightly colored embroidery.

Getting to the border of Riviera Nayarit takes just 10 minutes by car from the Puerto Vallarta airport, which is in the neighboring state of Jalisco. Mexico is actually named "United States of Mexico," with 31 states and one federal district (Mexico City).

If you've never visited, the Riviera Nayarit shows off Mexico's best features. No wonder so many expatriates from the U.S. and Canada, and even from farther shores, have chosen to settle here — more than anywhere else in Mexico.

Those who want a laid-back, surfer feel are perfectly at home in funky/chic Sayulita. Other travelers, seeking a more pampered, exclusive experience, flock to the five-star resorts and golf courses of Punta Mita. Adventurous types looking to explore and soak in the authenticity lost in so many other tourist areas will find their nirvana in such villages as San Pancho, Bucerías and La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. Bird watchers and other naturalists from all over the world reach their bliss in San Blas. Foodies and gourmets find an extraordinary array of acclaimed, award-winning restaurants, talented, innovative chefs and unique culinary offerings — don't leave without trying aguachile de camarones (fresh shrimp cooked in lime and chile,) pescado sarandeado (grilled, garlic and chile-seasoned fish fillets,) or a chilled Cielo Rojo (spicy Clamato tomato juice, mixed with lager beer and lime). The No. 1 state for shrimp — Nayarit is a seafood lovers' haven.

But, if you hanker for a week of making no decisions and total relaxation, some 15 or so all-inclusives ranging from 3 to 5 stars invite you to do nothing at all on their lavish premises (with no guilt!)

Akin to Italy's Cinque Terre, there is nowhere else in Mexico that offers such a delightful variety of micro-destinations within one macro destination. Here's a glimpse of six villages (all within 20 minutes to two hours from the airport) affectionately termed pueblos encantados — enchanted towns — by the Mexican Tourism Department:

Bucerías

The first true village on the Riviera Nayarit coastline, (Nuevo Vallarta is basically a hotel and condo area created in the last 30 years or so, located right on Nayarit's southern border) Bucerías attracts large numbers of expats, yet successfully retains its true Mexican ambience. A long shopping and dining drag features a wide range, from made-in-China faux Mexican odds and ends to sophisticated artwork and furnishings you might find in Beverly Hills — but at lower prices. The Paseo del Beso (Kissing Bridge) is charming — and be sure to visit Arturo Ramirez Ortiz's booth at the southern end of the bridge — very nice sculptures made by him and other crafts made by members of his family. Bucerías is known and loved for its culinary treasures, such as Mark's Bar & Grill (marksbucerias.com), a hip, sophisticated spot owned by an American and his New Zealand-born wife — last Valentine's Day, when I had the pleasure of visiting, the place was jammed all night long with happy couples feasting on grass-fed filet mignon, pan-seared tuna, and Belgian chocolate mousse with espresso cream. Across the street, visit Jan Marie's boutique (owned by Mark's as well,) full of interior designer-quality furniture, décor and paintings from all over Mexico — it's like a trip to a museum!

Where to stay: Royal Decameron (decameron) is a three-hotel complex, 20 minutes from the airport, with a vast beach and easy access to the village of Bucerías.

Continue reading about La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Punta de Mita, San Francisco (San Pancho), San Blas, and Sayulita.