Where to Stay in and Around Puerto Vallarta Inga Aksamit - Examiner.com
go to original March 2, 2013

View of Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay from the Sky Miramar Restaurant at the Grand Miramar Cub and Spa. (Credit: Inga Aksamit)

Hotels and condominiums abound in the lush, tropical, sun-drenched town of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Nestled against the warm embrace of the Sierra Madre Mountains and cooled by sea breezes from the Bay of Banderas, Puerto Vallarta is a popular tourist destination that retains a connection to its heritage as a fishing village and important deep-water port along the coastline of Mexico.

Unlike other tourist destinations in Mexico, Puerto Vallarta was a thriving village long before cruise ships and movie producers (Night of the Iguana & Predator, among others) discovered it. Its proximity to the silver mines in the mountains, agricultural products from the Ameca River and bounty from the sea gave Puerto Vallarta a strong economic base and a rich legacy.

One of the ten largest bays in the world, the Bay of Banderas boasts 62 miles (100 km) of coastline lined with all manner of lodgings, ranging from budget hostels to luxury mega-resorts. There are so many choices that it’s hard to know where to start when choosing a home base from which to explore the pleasures of the region.

There are over 100 lodgings in Puerto Vallarta so it is impossible to be too specific about recommendations but the first step is to narrow down a geographic region. Puerto Vallarta, located in the state of Jalisco, can be divided in to four zones (South Zone, Downtown, Hotel Zone, Marina Vallarta), five if the newest developed area of Nuevo Vallarta, located in the state of Nayarit, is included.

All the areas are desirable in one way or another so the decision about where to lay your head at night just depends on personal preference. Starting in the south and working north each region has its own distinctive personality and unique amenities.

South Zone

This narrow strip of land hugs the steep banks of the Sierra Madre tightly, with barely enough space for a two lane road and a smattering of hotels clinging to the sides of the thickly vegetated mountain. The lush tropical foliage lurks on the edge of these properties, many with outstanding views of Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay from their lofty perches.

The South Zone is close to the village of Mismaloya, where the movie “Night of the Iguana” was filmed in 1964, the single most important event that cracked open the tourist rush to the sleepy town. This area is attractive to those who want close proximity to the active Downtown Zone but who also value a quiet refuge, though driving is probably necessary for all but the extremely fit who can ascend steep walkways in the tropical humidity.

The Grand Miramar Club and Spa is a large sleek hotel/condominium complex that is one of the highest and its rooftop restaurant, aptly named Sky Miramar, presents panoramic views of the sun rising over the city, the vast Pacific Ocean and the misty mountains to the south. The property features three pools and spacious guest suites with separate bedroom, living/dining room and complete kitchen.

Los Arcos Suites (Photo credit: Inga Aksamit)

Downtown

The historic core of Puerto Vallarta, original site of the local fishing and pearl-diving village which later hosted trading ships that would pull into the generously sized bay to pick up silver from the mines deep in the Sierra Madre.

Quaint cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings and red roofs form the mosaic of Downtown. This is where the action is, with the largest concentration of restaurants and night clubs in the area, so if you want a vibrant night life and lots of culinary choices you probably want to be in or near downtown.

At Los Muertos Beach you can find fun in the sun with pick-up volleyball, drinks served to your lounge chair and a vibrant atmosphere. Lodging runs the gamut from budget to luxury but the resorts are generally smaller and more intimate than other parts of town.

Los Arcos Suites is a full-service family boutique hotel with a pool and restaurant that offers good mid-range value for a comfortable, cozy room decorated with traditional artwork, carved wooden headboards and a balcony right on Los Muertos beach. The Mexican Colonial motif sets it apart from the modern design of newer resorts, reminiscent of old Mexico. Rooms overlook the pool and the large open-air Mi Pueblito restaurant serves generous portions of Mexican favorites, fresh seafood and grilled meats.

Moving north we’ll look at the remaining zones in Puerto Vallarta and beyond.

Sheraton Buganvillas (Photo credit: Inga Aksamit)

The Hotel Zone

The Hotel Zone is located between the airport and downtown, bisected by the cruise-ship terminal and opposite several large malls.

Most of the properties are large resorts and while the street side is not that appealing, fronting busy Francisco Medina Ascencio Boulevard and a jumbled collection of shops and services, the beaches are beautiful and the sun sets directly opposite this location making for a lovely, romantic sunset every evening.

It’s an easy stroll on flat terrain to downtown, especially for those resorts closest to downtown (furthest from the airport), and shopping and movie theaters are available at the nearby malls.

Sheraton Buganvillas Resort & Convention Center, one of the closest to downtown, is an example of a chain hotel in the Hotel Zone that offers many amenities, including a large pool, intimate spa and several restaurants with beach access. It’s an older hotel with the standard type of anonymous guest room you’d expect, but you’ll get a great night’s sleep on the exceedingly comfortable Sheraton Sweet Sleeper bed topped with soft, feather pillows — a factor not taken lightly by many seasoned travelers. The Sunday Brunch is renowned for its vast number of breakfast and lunch tastes in an open-air setting — get there early to avoid long lines.

Marina Vallarta

Moving further north, Marina Vallarta is centered around a picturesque marina with 400 private slips where many expats berth their yachts. Small boutiques and cafés line the marina and it’s a pleasant place to stroll in the evening.

The popular tour company, Vallarta Adventures, has a convenient pick-up spot here. It’s a short cab ride or longer public bus ride to downtown which is perfect for couples or families who want a quieter experience overall — they might visit downtown one or two times in a week and take advantage of other activities around the area during their stay.

The small beaches tend to be rocky so most of the resort action is centered around large pools. Access to the central golf course, Marina Vallarta Club de Golf, is available.

Newer resorts in Marina Vallarta tend to raise the bar on luxury and the CasaMagna Marriott is no exception. Soaring lobbies, lush landscaping, references to the local culture and impeccable service set this property apart from many others. The sizable Ohtli Spa offers an impressive range of services with four plunge pools, a lap pool, well-equipped gym and several different styles of massage in a lovely setting.

Nuevo Vallarta

Don’t be misled by the name, Nuevo Vallarta, which is not actually in Puerto Vallarta. It is located in the neighboring state of Nayarit and is the newest area to be developed. It’s a 30 minute drive from Puerto Vallarta so visits to downtown would likely be limited, but most properties provide all you need so you never have to leave.

Characterized by huge, all-inclusive resorts with multiple buildings, pools and golf courses, these are the type of resorts where it’s easy to forget you’re in Mexico and hard to get motivated to depart, even for an excursion. The Grand Mayan Nuevo Vallarta is a good example, with large suites, fifteen restaurants and bars, full-service spa, sandy beach, golf course, lazy river and more.

Beyond Puerto Vallarta

For the adventurous traveler who is looking for a unique experience, consider pushing beyond the city limits. Lodging is available in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, a small fishing village populated with an unexpected number of eclectic restaurants; Yelapa, accessible only by boat; Sayulita, a popular surfer destination; and San Sebastian de Oeste, a quaint silver mining town, all within an hour or two of town.

There is a place to suit all tastes in Puerta Vallarta — all it takes is a little understanding of what kind of vacation and amenities you’re looking for. If you’re a hipster looking for a pub crawl you don’t want to end up far away in Nuevo Vallarta. Likewise, if you’re looking for a peaceful tropical vacation where your kids will be entertained for hours you don’t want to end up at a Los Muertos beach-front property. If you have a group that is split, the Hotel Zone might be perfect, with full-service resorts that are within walking distance of downtown.

Getting There

Several airlines provide direct air service from the San Francisco (SFO) to Puerto Vallarta (PVR), including Alaska Airlines and United. Prices for airlines departing from SFO are currently starting at around $500. Flight time is about 3.5 hours. Check Skyscanner for more information.

Visa Requirements

According to the US Department of State, a visa is not required for citizens of the U.S. but you must carry a valid passport.

Inga Aksamit of SF International Travel Examiner, has traveled through Southeast Asia extensively from the age of four, having lived in Indonesia, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Peru as well as visiting numerous other countries in the region. She also has a special interest in northern lands in Canada in Alaska, including British Columbia and the Yukon. Join her as she explores the Pacific Rim, seeking adventure and culture on and off the beaten path. Visit Inga at www.IngasAdventures.com or email her at Iaksamit@aol.com.