Discovering the Magical and Romantic City of Oaxaca
Lisa Loverro - Forbes
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October 6, 2012
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Oaxaca City is located in Mexico's southern region in the middle of a zone surrounded by four valleys. Behind the valleys lie three important mountain ranges, which keep the climate mild with an average temperature of 64º F. (wevisitmexico)

This past week in New York City I attended a mezcal tasting, sponsored by the Mexico Tourism Board, trying to expand my knowledge of this artisanal Mexican spirit from the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca. It reminded me of my visit to Oaxaca City, the capital city in this state of the same name, and inspired me to write this post.

Discovering a new and exciting city, to me, is like falling in love. It excites you, engulfing your senses so completely that the thought of saying goodbye could bring a tear to your eye. Such was the case with my visit to Oaxaca; a romantic, Spanish Colonial city lined with cobblestone streets and opulent cathedrals.

Along with these quaint cobblestone streets and striking Baroque cathedrals there’s ancient ruins, a majestic landscape and a culinary scene that will have you begging for more. The days are warm and sunny, the evenings cool and romantic. As the birthplace of Mexico’s culinary scene, the streets are filled with open-air food markets where the aroma of freshly made tortillas whets your appetite. I indulged in everything from burritos, mole sauces, chocolate and cheese to their local delicacy, chapulines (seasoned and fried grasshoppers). The local chocolate, combined with cinnamon and almonds was made fresh and the Oaxacan cheese, soft and pungent, became one of my main food groups; but it was the mole that won my heart with it’s spicy and complicated flavors.

The culinary scene is just a portion of the overall appeal to Oaxaca. The culture is a mixture of various indigenous people including Aztec and Zapotec with the obvious Spanish influences.  Most impressive were the ruins of Monte Alban dating back to 500 BC. It’s an ideal ½ day trip outside Oaxaca city as only a 20-minute scenic drive up through the mountains. Tourists here are virtually non-existent as opposed to the popular Mayan ruins in Mexico’s Yucatan Penninsula.

The focal point of the city is the gorgeous Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman and its surrounding plaza. Built by Dominican friars in the 1550s, its stained glass windows and baroque façade are quite the spectacle. The cobblestone streets surrounding the church are filled with boutiques and art galleries. You could spend hours in this area alone discovering its many side streets and shops.

In the evenings, local musicians take to the plazas serenading couples strolling along while Vespas whiz through the narrow streets.  Accommodations vary from the high end Camino Real to beautiful guest homes such as Casa Catrina, a charming 6-room boutique Bed and Breakfast.

When ordering a cocktail, don’t ask for Tequila or you’ll encounter some questionable looks. It’s Mezcal that is held near and dear to the locals’ hearts.  And speaking of heart, they’ve got plenty of it here. A stroll on a Friday evening watching couples embrace and street musicians playing will make you never want to leave this magical city.

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